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Lonz
 Lonz
(@alonzo)
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29/04/2019 5:28 pm  

I agree, it can be a useful term, but is overused.

I would describe the ride feel of my Prior Khyber as surfy.  It  has 3 cms of taper and a RCR profile, so it's quite slarvy, the tail wants to break out as you hit the apex of turns, and you have to pressure the back foot intently through the finish if you want that edge to hold at speed.  My T6 is very much un-surfy - it initiates crisply, holds an edge fiercely, wants to finish turns across fall line, and pops like crazy out of turns.

I think people can have surfy styles too.  To me, that would be the guy who is always riding low and loose, usually at a slowish pace, just flowing with all the contours of the slope looking for banks to slash and smoothly linking lots of small-radius, low-to-medium speed turns.  To me, a surfy style is like the opposite of a hard-charging style.

Again, to reiterate, I agree that the term is overused, hackneyed marketing tripe for the most part, in practice, but I still see some value in the term, depending on the source from whom it emanates.  If the Good Ride guys describe a board as surfy, I disregard it.  If someone on here whose opinions I value describes a board as surfy, I view that as information I can use to get an overall sense of the character of that board without riding it myself. 


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c.fuzzy
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02/05/2019 7:13 am  

Just saw Chris Roach is on Academy and will have a pro model... suddenly fully expect Academy to be a dead brand in ~3 years.

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drjcv
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02/05/2019 6:27 pm  

lol its died many times #russiandoll


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banned transphobe
(@tierarzt)
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08/05/2019 11:06 am  

Anybody else encountered this problem where you mount bindings to a regular insert board (no channel), and 3 out of 4 screws go in normally, but 1 just won't go in right? Feels like it won't line up properly. Or the threads of the screw/insert won't work together and you feel like you're forcing it in. Once or twice I've tried to force it and almost ended up with the screw stuck half in half out can't screw in further but can't un-screw either? 

Is there a term for this? Can you fix it or not?


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Velvet Hammer
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08/05/2019 11:12 am  
Posted by: tierarzt

Anybody else encountered this problem where you mount bindings to a regular insert board (no channel), and 3 out of 4 screws go in normally, but 1 just won't go in right? Feels like it won't line up properly. Or the threads of the screw/insert won't work together and you feel like you're forcing it in. Once or twice I've tried to force it and almost ended up with the screw stuck half in half out can't screw in further but can't un-screw either? 

Is there a term for this? Can you fix it or not?

No, I always take at least two boards when I travel and one of them is a Burton. I take one set of  Burton bindings and take both discs. Never had a problem going between Burton, Salomon, Nitro and DC.

 


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highme
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08/05/2019 11:48 am  

YaDig3Holes


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89c51
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08/05/2019 1:12 pm  
Posted by: tierarzt

Anybody else encountered this problem where you mount bindings to a regular insert board (no channel), and 3 out of 4 screws go in normally, but 1 just won't go in right? Feels like it won't line up properly. Or the threads of the screw/insert won't work together and you feel like you're forcing it in. Once or twice I've tried to force it and almost ended up with the screw stuck half in half out can't screw in further but can't un-screw either? 

Is there a term for this? Can you fix it or not?

Never had that. Do you by any chance tighten the screws before inserting the next one??


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banned transphobe
(@tierarzt)
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08/05/2019 1:53 pm  

Pretty sure I always just insert the screws and only screw them in a little bit (not at all tight) until I've managed to get all 4 in the inserts smoothly. Last time this happened I got a friend to try himself to check I wasn't being an idiot, he couldn't do it either even with backing all the other screws off and re-trying, and swapping out the affected screw for another one. This was on a Nitro Team. I was just wondering if, if the insert alignment is even slightly off of where it should be, will this cause it? Regular disc bindings by the way, no Reflex etc. 


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matty
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08/05/2019 2:37 pm  

Never had that happen either. Sounds like you're crossthreading things somehow. I always start screws by turning them the wrong way until they kind of drop into place on the first thread before I turn them the correct way and tighten them. I stop if I get serious resistance (more than just from the dry loctite on the threads of the screw starting to do its thing), back out, and try again. If you can figure out the correct size, a tap might be able to fix any damage you've done to the insert enough to make it serviceable again. No idea how durable inserts are in terms of ability to repair them, though.


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c.fuzzy
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08/05/2019 2:58 pm  

It happens to me. Only on pow days though. The deeper the fresh, the more likely it'll happen. 

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black bnr32
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08/05/2019 6:13 pm  

The threads should be M6 x 1.0

Run a tap into the insert to clean up the threads

Drill your disk holes out to about 9/32" to allow easier alignment


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banned transphobe
(@tierarzt)
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09/05/2019 12:50 pm  

Yeah cross-threading is the word I was looking for. I guess that's the advantage of the channel, if it did happen you could just slide the female-piece out of the channel. 


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slim253
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23/05/2019 1:47 am  

i've repaired a few boards this has happened to using an M6 x 1.o tap and die (die to repair the screw if its not too bad), but you might be able to use a thread chaser too (similar to a tap but less aggressive). if you do use a tap (most auto parts stores should have an m6 set for around $25), be careful. they usually come to a point, and that point will contact the bottom of the insert before it really starts to do any "repairing." you need to grind the tip flat first, otherwise it'll poke the bottom of the insert and can push out the base (you'll have a small bump on the base. still rideable, but depending on how bad could affect waxing/scraping). all in all, fairly easy fix. i always spin my screws in reverse while pushing down til i feel them "drop/click" just like @matty, but have still had a screw cross thread on me. to be fair, it was because of burton's stupid fucking plastic strip thread lock bullshit. that stuff is garbage and i hate it.

 

edit: thread chaser may also be called a thread restorer

This post was modified 5 months ago 2 times by slim253

135 lbs. (62kg) | 5'7" (170cm) | Mens U.S. 8 boots | Fischer RC4 Worldcup GS 189cm


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Velvet Hammer
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23/05/2019 4:58 am  

 You need a “bottom tap”. This way you don’t have to worry about the point .


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c.fuzzy
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23/05/2019 5:56 am  
Posted by: slim253

i've repaired a few boards this has happened to using an M6 x 1.o tap and die (die to repair the screw if its not too bad), but you might be able to use a thread chaser too (similar to a tap but less aggressive). if you do use a tap (most auto parts stores should have an m6 set for around $25), be careful. they usually come to a point, and that point will contact the bottom of the insert before it really starts to do any "repairing." you need to grind the tip flat first, otherwise it'll poke the bottom of the insert and can push out the base (you'll have a small bump on the base. still rideable, but depending on how bad could affect waxing/scraping). all in all, fairly easy fix. i always spin my screws in reverse while pushing down til i feel them "drop/click" just like @matty, but have still had a screw cross thread on me. to be fair, it was because of burton's stupid fucking plastic strip thread lock bullshit. that stuff is garbage and i hate it.

 

edit: thread chaser may also be called a thread restorer

Super explanation 

lingonberry pancakes waffles


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