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Lonz
 Lonz
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17/04/2020 9:15 am  

That's a serious line.  


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casjcade
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17/04/2020 10:12 am  

Yeah, that one had some sketchy loaded parts.


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Spenser
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17/04/2020 11:33 am  

Bad decision.


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Velvet Hammer
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17/04/2020 12:02 pm  

That line looks exactly like a funnel. Sketchy is putting it mildly.


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Lonz
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17/04/2020 12:41 pm  

It does look like something that would be fun to ride in the spring, but you would want to start out in the dark to get on it while it's still cold.  Still, I don't think I'd touch it if it faces east or south.  If you could cut and drop a piece of the cornice to test the slope before getting in there, it would be wise.  

Either way, it's a super committing line and you would definitely have to have your sluff management dialed if it's as steep as it looks because that pinch point coming out of the top section is insane.  I'd be bringing my ice axe along for that one as well.


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Spenser
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17/04/2020 12:47 pm  

I wouldn’t have said “bad decision” if not for current events. Otherwise, probably would have just exclaimed at how gnarly that looks.


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Lonz
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17/04/2020 12:54 pm  
Posted by: @spenser

I wouldn’t have said “bad decision” if not for current events. Otherwise, probably would have just exclaimed at how gnarly that looks.

You weren't wrong.  Riding a line like that is a terribly bad, selfish decision right now. 

Last Saturday was green lights across the board for everything in the White Pass, but my partner and I still kept things to a 5/10 on account of the context.  We stopped and eyed a dream line that neither of us have ever hit and that has been at the very top of both of our lists for a couple years (995m vertical, sustained 45-40 degree pitch), but it's just not in the cards this season. It killed me a bit, but shit is too fucked up to chase giant lines right now, even if it is the thickest pack we've had in a decade.


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drjcv
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17/04/2020 1:09 pm  

Are your local hospitals overwhelmed? Its easy to check. Unless you're in a major urban area its mostly likely your hospital is a ghost town because they sent evernoe home/cancelled every surgery for fear of being overwhelmed.

anyway, i'm sure that line is north facing or it would probably never be doable.

I think almost every avalanche fatality can be chalked up to "bad decision", right? or lack of ice axes 2 is minimum right?

 


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Lonz
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17/04/2020 1:30 pm  
Posted by: @drjcv

1) Are your local hospitals overwhelmed? Its easy to check. Unless you're in a major urban area its mostly likely your hospital is a ghost town because they sent evernoe home/cancelled every surgery for fear of being overwhelmed.

2) anyway, i'm sure that line is north facing or it would probably never be doable.

3)I think almost every avalanche fatality can be chalked up to "bad decision", right? 4) or lack of ice axes 2 is minimum right?

 

1) It's funny you should bring this up because that is a big part of what is killing me.  I'm in Whitehorse, where we have no one in the hospital w/COVID-19 and no community transmission (one of the benefits of living at the fringes of civilization).  For me, the primary contextual consideration is how bad it looks to others in the backcountry community.  I'm a pretty active member and have been a director on the board of our local avalanche association for several years, and my buddy sits on the board of our local skit hill, so the optics would be very bad were we to start riding more dangerous stuff right now.  The pullouts are right off the highway, and anyone driving through would know it was us.  Nosey chicks would probably say shit to my wife about it, and I don't want the marital exposure, even if I think the objective exposure is low.

2) One would hope, but some people are just habitual dice rollers.  I know of a few guys locally who have ridden an east-facing line that is just as gnarly, but also requires you to jump a bergshrund and avoid a small ice fall with cravasses on the runout.  People are crazy, dude.

3) True, but there is a hierarchy of bad decision making, and some are worse than others.  The line in question looks to have rated pretty highly on the spectrum.

4) I know you're joking, but I don't understand the double ice axe thing.  Self-arresting on your ice axe is a two-handed move.  Seems like a good way to dislocate your shoulder while still continuing to fall downslope.  


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casjcade
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17/04/2020 1:33 pm  

Kinda weird to ride with 2 ice axes in any case. If you want a chance of hanging on you need both hands on the axe, but they are mostly useful for climbing into stuff or in a glacier kit.


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Spenser
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17/04/2020 1:58 pm  

Of course high consequence stuff like that can always be said to be a bad decision, but add on current events… just a simple general comment. The industry itself seems to be behind the idea of playing it safe as well, for various reasons, and that idea is all I was speaking to. Still a matter of opinion, though. Shit like that is way off my radar anyway; I’m not interested in it even in an ideal world.


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psklt
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17/04/2020 3:33 pm  

This type of line is really not on my radar at all either. It's an impressive achievement no doubt just not what I'm after. I look at the south side of the mountain from home and the heart of the Gore Range itself is insanely beautiful, but really demanding of respect.

It is North facing and really recessed so it goes into the summer. 100% on the sluff management, the choke at the top is pretty tight and steep and there aren't really many safe zones throughout the whole couloir. It's apparently a pretty sustained 45deg for most of it.

For more context as to why it was a bad decision beyond pandemic reasons - it'd snowed +/- a foot the 3 days leading up to the accident with pretty strong winds especially up there above 12,000'. Avy danger has been considerable 3/5 all week recommending keeping it under 30-35 while watching for wind and storm slabs on north to east to southeast facing slopes. It was also really warm and spring like directly before the storm then back to single digits/teens and snow all this week. I would think a group of three with lots of backcountry experience and avalanche training would've been very aware of the conditions so I'm still lost on the decision to go for it.

On top of that, our SAR and first responders have asked everyone to dial it back. Not because our hospital is overwhelmed, anyone with covid-19 here (60ish confirmed cases so far but very little testing available) has been sent to denver I've heard, but in case you are asymptomatic and need a rescue you could potentially pass it on to up to 30 important people involved in your rescue. A selfish decision was made here. Sad outcome. Finally sunny today so they went and retrieved the body.

Here's a photo of the entrance from last may during an above average snow year. Gnarly to say the least:

 Landscapesuntitled May+10,+201978239

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Spenser
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19/04/2020 11:56 am  

Not sure if I’m supposed to share this yet, but I guess Rainery is riding for Karakoram now, and sounds like he’s going to be paid at least some amount. I’ve known that for a little bit, but he just got his package today.. looks like there is a new binding in the works

0113FE30 DFD9 466C B01F 7F4EAB160BE9

also kind of special because our younger friend Max put them together. He moved down there last year, and works with Ross (rossco) who doesn’t post here anymore


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Spenser
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19/04/2020 9:45 pm  

Day 49 - haven’t split since March 24. Spring has sprung & it was a lovely soft time. I loooove having a squash as my split these days. Ended things with dinner on the Coleman on the water.

65CB7DB2 0903 4841 9E67 FF1A80A736A5
671385BD 6A5E 4504 8C66 D3841257BD13
A4F90B05 8898 47DA 8AE5 1231488B5ED2
AD72BF56 69A3 4158 970F 36D3DD71C1C7

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psklt
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20/04/2020 11:06 am  

girlfriend got a killer deal on a brand new FT anti social split. Finally got to take her up something for some mellow pow turns. It was at least a foot deep of heavier snow. Fun for me at least haha

IMG 3434

 


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