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bknyc
(@benjinyc)
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ocean beach is no joke. prob the hardest place I've had to paddle ever.

we've been lucky this week in NYC, good stretch of waist/chest high waves, off shore winds most of the day… water finally warming up where I can take off my wetsuit hood

 

I learned to surf on a shortboard, but it was really thick and wide so it had a lot of volume… paddles easily and catches waves earlier. Longboards are great, but taking one on the subway was kinda pain to deal with or dealing with roof straps.


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kimchi
(@kimchi)
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Posted by: @benjinyc

ocean beach is no joke. prob the hardest place I've had to paddle ever.

we've been lucky this week in NYC, good stretch of waist/chest high waves, off shore winds most of the day… water finally warming up where I can take off my wetsuit hood

 

I learned to surf on a shortboard, but it was really thick and wide so it had a lot of volume… paddles easily and catches waves earlier. Longboards are great, but taking one on the subway was kinda pain to deal with or dealing with roof straps.

God, paddling out in OBSF sucks. I'm still feeling out different spots, but you can just feel the power of the waves out there. The conditions also seem way less predictable, overlapping sets coming from different directions and combining in haphazard ways. The power of the waves is just different too.

OBSF seems pretty shallow relatively far out from the shore, so I can walk out a fair distance... if I just want to work on stuff in white water, I might not even have to paddle. Helps me conserve some energy.

I avoided OBSF the first 6 months I surfed. I'm getting to a point I will go out on smaller days (I'm actually headed there now), but I usually drive 20 minutes to Pacifica. Even though that beach is crowded as shit, I get worked way less and catch more waves. It also has a pretty easy showering setup so I can clean up a little bit in the parking lot rather than hosing down in my backyard. 

As I level up, I'll probably stay closer to home, but yea going to be a long before I can take Ocean Beach on a bigger day (if ever).


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unsatisfiedus
(@unsatisfiedus)
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@kimchi ocean beach in the summer should be fine but the winter is no go unless advanced most days.  bolinas is also protected in the winter, but that drive is a pain in the ass in if you're (i'd assume) in the sunset or something like that i would just head south the santa cruz.  

 

in the winter on the west coast the main swells will be northwest.  in the summer they will be mostly south, but from much further out.  over simplified for sure.  this is a good video to get thinking about it.  

 

@benjinyc i have a minivan and can fit big boards inside.  put em on the roof for longer drives with the family inside, but otherwise just up the middle.   i cant imagine taking public transport with a surfboard of any size.  


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kimchi
(@kimchi)
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Posted by: @unsatisfiedus

@kimchi ocean beach in the summer should be fine but the winter is no go unless advanced most days.  bolinas is also protected in the winter, but that drive is a pain in the ass in if you're (i'd assume) in the sunset or something like that i would just head south the santa cruz.  

 

in the winter on the west coast the main swells will be northwest.  in the summer they will be mostly south, but from much further out.  over simplified for sure.  this is a good video to get thinking about it.  

Thanks for the beta, I'll watch that video.

Yea, I'm in the Sunset. Sucks because I can literally see the ocean from my west-facing guest room "office" but OB is just too gnarly for me most days. I just went out for an hour and got pretty wrecked. Caught one sloppy wave and a few white waters, and beyond that mostly got the wash cycle treatment over and over.

After my great day at Santa Cruz earlier in the week, I felt like an overconfident beginner coming off the high of his first black diamond, then getting taught a lesson in humility by Snowbird or Jackson Hole lol. I ended up calling it pretty early because I'm taking the day off to go snowboarding tomorrow and really didn't want to wipe myself out too much (or drown lol).


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kimchi
(@kimchi)
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Posted by: @benjinyc

 I learned to surf on a shortboard, but it was really thick and wide so it had a lot of volume… paddles easily and catches waves earlier. Longboards are great, but taking one on the subway was kinda pain to deal with or dealing with roof straps.

This was literally what kept me on the sidelines for a long time with surfing. I'm 200 lbs, so I should probably be on at least a a 9', maybe 10' foamie... I don't have the storage space to deal with that and carrying it in / on the car souned like a pain in the ass.

The shitty 8'2" Body Glove inflatable I bought from Costco basically got me off the sidelines. Packs up pretty compact in the outdoor shed and juuuuust fits inside my car over the center console (although I'll strap it up top secured by the leash for shorter drives).

I haven't dug suuuuper deep into it, but I'm thinking for the first "real board" I'll get a 7' fun board in the 60-70L range based on this page. That might be a little aggressive downsizing from the inflatable 8'2", but I'd rather not play the game of incrementally buying smaller and smaller boards as I get better. I don't have aspirations of building out a large surf quiver (...said the owner of 6 snowboards, 5 bindings, and 3 boots).


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unsatisfiedus
(@unsatisfiedus)
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after considerable research i can confirm that surfing is still fun

 

@kimchi you will have a quiver. not if but when.


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kimchi
(@kimchi)
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Maybe someday. Don’t have the storage space for more than one real deck, on top of the inflatable. Next house, yea I will probably roll with at least 2 or 3 real decks. 

But fuck yea, surfing is rad. Still suck but I’m catching at least a few decent rides each trip. Getting better at reading the ocean and the lineup. Realizing my beginner break at Pacifica isn’t actually as crowded as it seems. 90% of the people aren’t catching shit so I just need to avoid them on takeoff rather than competing for waves.  


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unsatisfiedus
(@unsatisfiedus)
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yeah.  kinda like most golf courses.  you get out there and realize almost everyone is shite at it and your mediocre skills aren't as bad as you thought.  and then you go to taco bell.  


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kimchi
(@kimchi)
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Picked up this South Bay Board Co Casper 6'8" off Facebook marketplace. Gotten it out 3 times over the past few weeks. Definitely a harsh transition off my board of an inflatable board. Haven't caught a single wave since I switched over and have way less margin for error. My paddle speed has dropped dramatically and I have a smaller balance window for popping up.

Doesn't help that it's smaller than I expected. It's listed on the website at 58L, but it's apparently 47L. Tough as a 210 lb kook.

I'm progressing at least. First day I took it out, I just wore myself out paddling. Second day, I didn't catch shit but felt more comfortable paddling. This past Monday, was the first day it felt workable. I didn't stand up on anything, but was at least timing and catching the waves properly. I was wiping out trying to get up, rather than just missing things.


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unsatisfiedus
(@unsatisfiedus)
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yeah, much lower margin of error on smaller boards.  probably worth taking the fins off and practicing the pop-up at home.  if you can get a quick/tight pop-up on a flat surface (like the floor) it will be a lot easier when youre catching a wave (and the board is actually dropping out from under you on the slope).  the flatland practice requires more effort and thus makes the real one seem easier.  20 pop-ups a day is pretty quick at home but takes a long time in the water.  obviously you'll look like an asshole doing it so finding a private practice spot is important.  


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kimchi
(@kimchi)
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Posted by: @unsatisfiedus

yeah, much lower margin of error on smaller boards.  probably worth taking the fins off and practicing the pop-up at home.  if you can get a quick/tight pop-up on a flat surface (like the floor) it will be a lot easier when youre catching a wave (and the board is actually dropping out from under you on the slope).  the flatland practice requires more effort and thus makes the real one seem easier.  20 pop-ups a day is pretty quick at home but takes a long time in the water.  obviously you'll look like an asshole doing it so finding a private practice spot is important.  

This was helpful. I practice pop-ups on hardwood, but haven't done it on a surfboard since my first month or so surfing. I did a few reps on the beach this morning and realized my brain is freaking out because it's not used to my lower legs hanging off the end of the board. My brain and back foot are hunting for extra support of the floor / longboard tail on the way up and it was throwing me off.

Between West Coast smoke, vacation, the new short board, and weak swell, I haven't caught a proper wave in like 6 weeks. But every time I go out on the smaller board, I'm feeling more confident and progressing. Learning curve hasn't been as steep and I feared. Paddling technique is getting a lot better. I'm still having some trouble getting outside on moderate / big days. Not clear if the board's still too big for that or if my duck dive technique just sucks (probably both).


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kimchi
(@kimchi)
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Posted by: @kimchi

Picked up this South Bay Board Co Casper 6'8" off Facebook marketplace. Gotten it out 3 times over the past few weeks. Definitely a harsh transition off my board of an inflatable board. Haven't caught a single wave since I switched over and have way less margin for error. My paddle speed has dropped dramatically and I have a smaller balance window for popping up.

Doesn't help that it's smaller than I expected. It's listed on the website at 58L, but it's apparently 47L. Tough as a 210 lb kook.

I'm progressing at least. First day I took it out, I just wore myself out paddling. Second day, I didn't catch shit but felt more comfortable paddling. This past Monday, was the first day it felt workable. I didn't stand up on anything, but was at least timing and catching the waves properly. I was wiping out trying to get up, rather than just missing things.

Been out a few more times since posting this. I hadn't caught a proper wave in a couple months, but like I said in most recent post, I can feel myself getting better every time I go out. The smaller margin of error on the new board forces me to level up.

The new board had a ding so I left it on the sidelines to dry out and went back to my old board this morning... holy crap. I knew I progressed riding the smaller board, but I didn't realize how much. I was paddling faster, reading the ocean better, positioning better, and taking-off and popping-up better. Had front-to-back my best and most consistent session out on the water since I first started surfing about a year ago.

I've felt SO incompetent since I sized down to the smaller board, but that forced me to progress a lot in a pretty short period of time. Once I figure out popping from the knees rather than the toes, I think I'm going to have a lot of fun on the new deck during the winter.


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